How to Make a 3D Terrain Model of Mount Everest Using 3D Printing & Recycled Paper Mache

How to Make a 3D Terrain Model of Mount Everest Using 3D Printing & Recycled Paper Mache – A Step-by-Step DIY Guide

Why I Made This Project

Mount Everest has always fascinated me—not just as the highest peak on Earth but as a symbol of adventure, resilience, and natural beauty. As a Geography enthusiast, I’ve spent hours studying terrain maps, satellite images, and topographic features of the Himalayas.

I wanted to bring a piece of Everest into my hands, but instead of buying a ready-made model, I decided to make my own 3D miniature terrain—one that’s both scientifically accurate and eco-friendly.

This project is special because:

  • It turns real-world topography into a physical model using 3D printing and digital terrain data.
  • It promotes recycling by using old waste paper to create the final model instead of plastic or resin.
  • It can be replicated for any landscape, making it a fun and educational project for Geography lovers, students, and DIY makers.

In this guide, I’ll take you through every step of making this 3D terrain of Everest. Even if you’re new to 3D printing or terrain modeling, don’t worry! I’ll explain everything in simple terms so you can follow along.

Step 1: Preparing the 3D Model

Before we can 3D print our mold, we need a digital 3D terrain model of Mount Everest. This step involves:

  1. Finding real-world elevation data
  2. Importing it into Blender (a free 3D modeling software)
  3. Cleaning up and adjusting the model to make it suitable for 3D printing

If you’re not familiar with 3D modeling, don’t worry! I learned this from a great YouTube tutorial, which I’ll link in the description. Here’s a step-by-step breakdown of what I did.

1. Downloading Real-World Elevation Data

To make the model scientifically accurate, we need DEM (Digital Elevation Model) data of the Everest region. Here’s how to get it:

  1. Go to the NASA Earthdata or OpenTopography website – These platforms provide free elevation data of any place on Earth.
  2. Search for ‘Mount Everest’ – You’ll find multiple DEM datasets. Choose one with a resolution of at least 30 meters per pixel for better detail.
  3. Download the file – It will usually be in GeoTIFF format (.tif), which we can import into Blender.

2. Importing Elevation Data into Blender

  1. Open Blender (download it from blender.org if you haven’t).
  2. Install the “GIS” Add-on (BlenderGIS)
    • Go to Edit > Preferences > Add-ons
    • Search for “GIS” and enable the “BlenderGIS” add-on.
  3. Import the DEM File
    • Go to GIS > Import Raster DEM
    • Select the .tif file you downloaded.
    • Blender will generate a 3D terrain based on the elevation data!

At this point, we have a rough terrain of the Everest region inside Blender. But it needs some adjustments before we can 3D print it.

3. Scaling & Cleaning the Model for 3D Printing

  1. Scale Down the Model

    • Since Everest is massive, we need to scale it down to a manageable size.
    • Press “S” (scale) in Blender, then adjust the size until it fits within your desired print dimensions.

  2. Increase the Vertical Exaggeration (Optional)

    • Sometimes, terrain features look too flat when scaled down.
    • You can slightly increase the Z-axis height to make valleys and peaks more visible in the final print.
    • Press “S” then “Z” and scale up slightly for better detail.

  3. Smooth Out Rough Areas

    • Use Blender’s sculpting tools to remove unwanted noise or spikes in the terrain.
    • Go to Sculpt Mode and lightly smooth out areas that look unnatural.

4. Converting the Model into a 3D Printable Object

  1. Export as an STL File

    • Once satisfied with the terrain, go to File > Export > STL (.stl).
    • Save the file and name it something like “Everest_Terrain.stl”.

  2. Check the Model for Errors

    • Open MeshLab or Cura to check for holes or errors in the mesh.
    • If there are any, use Blender’s “Remesh” tool to fix them.

 

 

The video “How to Create 3D Terrain with Google Maps and Blender!” by CG Geek explains how to extract real-world terrain data and convert it into a 3D model using Blender. 

Step 1: Extracting the Terrain Data for Mount Everest

Before we start 3D printing or making molds, we first need a digital 3D model of Mount Everest. The best way to get real-world elevation data is by using Google Earth and Blender.

1. Open Google Earth Pro

  • Download and install Google Earth Pro (it’s free).
  • Search for Mount Everest and zoom in to get a clear view of the terrain.
  • Adjust the camera angle to get a top-down view of the area you want to model.

2. Enable Terrain Data

  • Go to the Tools menu and select Options.
  • Under the 3D View tab, make sure “Terrain” is enabled and set the elevation exaggeration to 1x (so everything stays true to scale).

3. Capture the Area

  • Once you’ve positioned Everest the way you want, take a screenshot of the terrain.
  • The goal is to get a clear, high-resolution image of the topography.

4. Import into Blender

  • Open Blender and create a new project.
  • Add a plane and use the screenshot as a reference to trace the landscape.
  • Use the Displace Modifier to sculpt the terrain based on the height variations in the image.

5. Fine-Tune the 3D Model

  • Adjust the subdivision levels to make the terrain more detailed.
  • Smooth out unnecessary rough edges while keeping the essential mountain ridges.
  • Scale the model to match the dimensions you’ll use for the mold.

Once you have a clean and detailed 3D terrain model of Everest, you’re ready to move on to the next step: Creating a 3-Part Mold in Fusion 360!




Step 2: Creating & 3D Printing the Mold

Now that we have our 3D terrain model of Mount Everest, the next step is to create a three-part mold to shape our paper mache. This mold will allow us to press wet paper pulp into the shape of Everest and hold it in place while it dries.

I designed the mold in Fusion 360, ensuring that all pieces fit together properly. If you’re new to 3D modeling, don’t worry! I’ll explain everything step by step.

Understanding the Three-Part Mold Design

A three-part mold is essential to capture the detailed topography while making it easy to remove the hardened paper mache later. Here’s how I designed mine:

1. Bottom Piece (Inverted Topography Layer)

  • This is the most important part of the mold.
  • It holds the inverted terrain of Everest, meaning the mountain is upside-down in this section.
  • When we press the wet paper mache into the mold, it takes the shape of the terrain’s surface.
  • This piece also has self-aligning edges to fit perfectly with the other mold pieces.

2. Middle Section (Support Box & Alignment)

  • This is a simple square box that holds both the bottom and top mold pieces in place.
  • It has attachment points that align with the other two pieces.
  • It ensures that the mold stays tightly in position while pressing and drying the paper mache.

3. Top Piece (Pressing Layer)

  • This piece fits inside the middle section and presses the paper mache into the terrain.
  • It applies even pressure, helping capture all details while removing excess water.
  • Like the other pieces, it has self-aligning features for easy assembly.

Designing the Mold in Fusion 360

If you want to create a similar mold, follow these steps:

1. Import the Everest STL File

  • Open Fusion 360 and start a new design.
  • Click on Insert > Insert Mesh, and import the Everest_Terrain.stl file we created in Step 1.
  • Position the model so that the top of Everest is facing up.

2. Creating the Bottom Mold Piece (Inverted Terrain)

  • To create the bottom mold, we need to invert the terrain inside a solid block.
  • Create a solid rectangular block slightly larger than the Everest terrain.
  • Use the Boolean Subtract tool to cut out the terrain shape from the block.
  • This leaves us with a negative impression of Everest inside the mold.

3. Designing the Middle Section (Alignment Box)

  • Create a simple rectangular box around the bottom mold.
  • Add alignment slots or grooves to ensure it fits perfectly with the other pieces.

4. Creating the Top Pressing Piece

  • Duplicate the bottom mold shape and slightly shrink it to allow space for the paper mache.
  • This ensures the top mold can fit inside the middle section and press the paper mache evenly.

5. Adding Self-Fitting Features

  • To make sure the three parts align properly, I added guiding ridges and slots where each piece fits into the other.
  • This prevents shifting or misalignment when assembling the mold.

Slicing the 3D Mold in Cura

Once the mold design was complete, I exported each part as an STL file and prepared them for 3D printing in Ultimaker Cura.

1. Importing the STL Files into Cura

  • Open Ultimaker Cura and load the three STL files (bottom, middle, and top mold).
  • Arrange them on the print bed to minimize filament waste.

2. Choosing Print Settings

  • Layer Height: 0.2mm for a good balance of detail and speed.
  • Infill: I used 25-30% infill, but I recommend using a higher infill (40% or more) for extra strength.
  • Wall Thickness: At least 2mm to ensure durability.
  • Supports: If your model has overhangs, enable supports (but avoid excessive use, as they may be hard to remove).

3. Starting the Print

  • Once all settings were adjusted, I sliced the models and sent them to my Ender 3 printer.
  • I used PLA filament in orange and black colors to easily distinguish the mold layers.
  • The printing took several hours, depending on the size of each part.

Step 3: Assembling the Mold & Preparing the Paper Mache

Now that we have successfully 3D-printed the three-part mold, the next step is to assemble the mold properly and prepare the paper mache mix. This is a crucial step because if the mold isn’t aligned correctly or the paper mache isn’t the right consistency, the final terrain model may not come out as expected.

Let’s break it down step by step!

Assembling the 3D-Printed Mold

Before we start working with paper mache, we need to put together the three mold pieces securely. Proper alignment is important because it ensures that our Everest model retains all the fine details.

1. Checking the Fit of the Mold Pieces

  • Take the bottom piece (which contains the inverted Everest terrain) and place it on a flat surface.
  • Hold the middle section (the square box) and position it over the bottom piece.
  • Check if the self-fitting grooves or ridges align perfectly.
  • Now take the top pressing piece and fit it inside the middle section.

👉 Tip: If any of the pieces don’t fit snugly, try sanding the edges slightly for a better fit.

2. Securing the Mold in Place

  • Once all the parts fit well, it’s time to make sure they stay in place while filling the mold with paper mache.
  • Use clamps to hold the bottom and middle sections together.
  • Leave the top piece separate for now, as we will insert it after adding the paper mache.

Preparing the Paper Mache Mix

Paper mache is a simple yet effective material made by recycling old paper scraps and mixing them with glue and water. It is lightweight but becomes strong when dried, making it perfect for our miniature Everest model.

1. Collecting Waste Paper

  • I gathered waste papers from my home—old newspapers, used notebooks, and scrap paper.
  • You can also use shredded office paper, magazines, or even egg cartons.
  • Try to avoid glossy or heavily coated paper, as it doesn’t break down well.

👉 Tip: The more paper you collect, the better! You don’t want to run out of material in the middle of the process.

2. Soaking the Paper

  • Tear the paper into small pieces (about the size of a coin) to help it break down faster.
  • Place all the torn paper in a large container or bucket.
  • Fill the container with warm water until all the paper is fully submerged.
  • Let the paper soak for at least 24 hours to soften it.

👉 Why soak the paper?
Soaking helps break down the fibers, making it easier to blend into a smooth pulp. If you’re in a hurry, you can soak it in hot water for a few hours instead.

3. Blending the Paper into Pulp

  • After the paper is fully soaked and soft, transfer it in batches into a blender or food processor.
  • Add a bit of water (just enough to keep the blades moving).
  • Blend until it turns into a smooth pulp.
  • If you don’t have a blender, you can mash the paper manually with your hands, but it will take more time.

👉 Tip: Don’t overfill the blender! Blend in small batches to avoid clogging the blades.

4. Mixing Glue & Water

  • In a separate bowl, prepare the binding mixture:
    • 1 part craft glue (PVA glue)
    • 2 parts water
    • (Optional) 1 teaspoon of salt to prevent mold growth
  • Stir the mixture well until the glue is fully dissolved.

👉 Why use glue?
Glue strengthens the paper mache and helps it hold its shape once dried.

5. Combining the Paper Pulp & Glue Mixture

  • Transfer the blended paper pulp into a large mixing bowl.
  • Gradually add the glue-water mixture, stirring with a wooden spoon or hands.
  • Keep mixing until you get a thick, clay-like consistency—moist but not too watery.

👉 How to check if the consistency is right?

  • Take a small amount and press it in your hand.
  • If it holds its shape without dripping water, it’s perfect.
  • If it’s too watery, squeeze out excess moisture or add more pulp.
  • If it’s too dry, add a little more glue-water mixture.

Step 4: Filling the Mold & Compressing the Paper Mache

Now that we have our 3D-printed mold assembled and our paper mache mix ready, it’s time to fill the mold and shape our miniature Mount Everest. This step is crucial because the way we fill the mold determines how well the terrain details will show in the final model.

Let’s go through this step by step so you can get the best results!

1. Preparing the Mold Before Filling

Before adding the paper mache, we need to ensure the mold is ready to hold the mixture properly.

A. Applying a Release Agent (Optional but Recommended)

  • Since paper mache can stick to the mold, applying a thin layer of a release agent will make demolding easier.
  • You can use:
    • A thin layer of petroleum jelly
    • A cooking oil spray
    • A watered-down glue mix (1 part glue, 3 parts water)
  • Apply it evenly to the inside surface of the bottom mold where the Everest terrain is imprinted.

👉 Why is this important?
It prevents the paper mache from sticking to the mold, making it easier to remove once it dries.

B. Making Sure the Mold is Secure

  • Double-check that the bottom mold and middle section are properly aligned and clamped together.
  • Keep the top piece separate for now—we’ll place it after adding the paper mache.

2. Filling the Mold with Paper Mache

Now comes the fun part—filling the mold with our recycled paper mache mix!

A. Adding the First Layer

  • Take small amounts of the paper mache and start pressing it into the mold with your fingers.
  • Focus on filling all the tiny details and crevices first.
  • Press firmly to remove any trapped air pockets.

👉 Tip: Using small amounts at a time ensures that the terrain details (like ridges and slopes) are well-defined in the final model.

B. Layering the Paper Mache

  • Once the first layer is packed into the details, start adding more layers on top.
  • Keep pressing the material firmly so that it compacts tightly inside the mold.
  • The goal is to fill the mold evenly so there are no weak or hollow spots.

👉 Tip: The thicker the paper mache, the stronger the final model will be.

C. Checking for Air Pockets

  • Run your fingers over the surface and press down firmly to make sure there are no gaps.
  • If you feel a soft spot, add more paper mache and press again.

3. Placing the Top Mold & Compressing the Shape

Once the mold is completely filled, we need to press the top piece in place to give the paper mache its final shape.

A. Placing the Top Mold Carefully

  • Align the top pressing piece with the middle section.
  • Slowly lower it into the mold, pressing evenly across the surface.

👉 Be gentle but firm!
If you push too hard, the excess paper mache will squeeze out too much. If you don’t press enough, the model may not hold its shape well.

B. Clamping & Applying Pressure

  • To make sure the mold holds everything in place, use 4 clamps—one on each side.
  • Tighten the clamps evenly so the pressure is distributed equally across the mold.
  • This step compresses the paper mache, helping remove excess moisture and strengthening the final shape.

👉 Tip: I used two plexiglass sheets on both sides of the mold to help distribute the pressure more evenly. This prevents the paper mache from drying with an uneven surface.

4. Adjusting & Adding More Paper Mache (If Needed)

After clamping, some paper mache might squeeze out from the edges—this is normal!

A. Checking for Gaps

  • Look for any empty spots where the paper mache might have shifted or compressed too much.
  • If you see any gaps, carefully unclamp the mold, add more paper mache, and re-clamp it.

B. Removing Excess Material

  • If there’s too much paper mache bulging out, trim it using a butter knife or a spatula before it dries.

👉 Tip: It’s better to slightly overfill the mold than to underfill it because we can always trim the excess later.

5. Letting the Mold Sit & Compress Properly

Once everything is clamped and in place, we need to let it sit for a few hours before moving to the drying stage.

  • Keep the mold clamped for at least 4-6 hours to allow the paper mache to take shape.
  • This helps squeeze out excess water and solidify the structure.
  • After this, we’ll move on to the drying phase, which takes several days.

Step 5: Unclamping & Demolding the Paper Mache Terrain

Now that our paper mache has been compressed inside the mold, it’s time to unclamp and carefully remove the model. This step is very important because if we rush or use too much force, we might damage the details of our terrain, or even break the structure.

Let’s go through this step by step to safely remove our miniature Mount Everest from the mold!

1. Checking if the Paper Mache is Ready for Demolding

Before we start removing the mold, we need to check if the paper mache has set properly.

A. How Long Should You Wait?

  • I kept my mold clamped for about 6 hours to squeeze out excess water.
  • After that, I left it inside the mold for 2 full days to begin drying.
  • Why? If we try to remove the model too soon, it might still be wet and soft, making it fragile and prone to breaking.

B. Signs That It’s Ready for Demolding

✔ The surface feels firm when lightly pressed.
✔ No visible wet spots or water droplets on the edges.
✔ The model holds its shape without sagging.

👉 If the model still feels soft, give it another 12-24 hours before attempting to remove it.

2. Carefully Removing the Clamps

Once the model is ready, we start by removing the clamps one at a time.

A. Steps to Remove the Clamps Safely

  1. Loosen the clamps gradually—don’t remove them all at once.
  2. Take off the plexiglass sheets (if used) to see the exposed surface.
  3. Check the top mold—if it looks stuck, wiggle it gently instead of pulling forcefully.

👉 Why be careful? Because sudden pressure can crack or warp the terrain shape if the paper mache is still slightly soft inside.

3. Removing the Top Mold

Now that the clamps are off, it’s time to remove the top pressing piece of the mold.

A. How to Take Off the Top Piece

  • Hold the middle section firmly and slowly lift the top piece straight up.
  • If it feels stuck, use a thin plastic spatula or a blunt knife to gently pry it loose.
  • Avoid twisting or bending—this could distort the shape of the model.

👉 What to do if it’s really stuck?
If the top piece doesn’t come off easily, leave it for a few more hours to dry further. The paper mache will shrink slightly as it dries, making it easier to remove.

4. Taking Out the Middle Section of the Mold

With the top piece removed, we now have access to the main body of our Everest model inside the mold.

A. Detaching the Middle Section

  • Gently pull apart the middle section from the bottom piece.
  • Since this part is just a square box for alignment, it should come off easily.
  • Be patient! If it’s tight, give it a little shake while lifting.

5. The Most Delicate Part: Removing the Bottom Mold

The bottom piece of our mold contains the detailed inverted topography of Mount Everest. This is where we need to be extra careful.

A. Steps to Remove the Bottom Piece Without Breaking the Model

  1. Loosen the edges first—gently tap around the bottom mold with your fingers to break any suction.
  2. Turn the mold upside down over a soft surface (like a towel or foam pad).
  3. Slowly lift the bottom mold upwards, letting the model release itself.

👉 Tip: If the terrain doesn’t come out, try gently shaking or tapping the mold’s edges—never force it out!

6. Inspecting the Unmolded Terrain

Now that our paper mache Everest model is out of the mold, let’s check how it turned out!

✔ Look for air pockets—did we press the paper mache evenly?
✔ Check for fine details—are the ridges and slopes visible?
✔ Feel the surface—is it holding together well?

7. Fixing Any Issues (If Needed)

Sometimes, minor problems can occur while demolding. Here’s how to fix them:

A. If the Peak or Edges Are Smushed

  • This happened to me—I accidentally damaged the peak while removing the mold.
  • Solution: Instead of trying to fix it, I decided to redo the whole process to get a perfect result.
  • Lesson Learned: Be extra careful when removing delicate parts!

B. If the Model Feels Too Soft

  • If the paper mache still feels slightly damp, let it dry for another day or two before painting.

8. Letting the Model Dry Completely

At this point, the model is out of the mold, but it still contains some moisture.

A. Air Drying the Terrain

  • Place the model in a well-ventilated area for 1-2 more days.
  • Turn it occasionally to allow even drying.
  • Avoid direct sunlight, as it can cause uneven drying or cracks.

B. Tidying Up the Edges

  • Once it’s dry enough to handle, gently smooth out rough edges using your fingers or a small file.
  • If any small cracks appear, dab a little extra paper mache to fill them and let it dry again.

Step 6: Painting & Adding Final Touches 🎨🏔️

Now that our paper mache Everest model is fully dry and unmolded, it’s time to bring it to life with colors! 🎨

Painting is a crucial step because it helps highlight the terrain details and makes our miniature look as close as possible to the real Mount Everest. Don’t worry if you’re not a painting expert—this is all about having fun and making it look good to you!

1. Preparing for Painting

Before we start applying paint, let’s get everything ready:

A. Gathering Materials

Here’s what you’ll need:

✔ Acrylic Paints – These work best because they dry fast and stick well to paper mache.
✔ Paintbrushes – A mix of thin brushes for details and larger brushes for base colors.
✔ A Palette or Small Containers – To mix colors.
✔ Reference Images of Everest – To match the colors as accurately as possible.
✔ A Cup of Water & Tissue Paper – For cleaning brushes.

2. Choosing the Right Colors

Mount Everest has a unique color palette:

✔ Dark Gray & Brown – For the lower rocky areas.
✔ Light Gray & White – For higher snow-covered regions.
✔ Blue Shades – To add depth to shadows.
✔ A Touch of Green – For lower areas where some vegetation exists.

👉 Tip: Use a reference image of Everest while painting to get the shades right. I kept one open on my phone throughout the process.

3. Painting the Base Layer

The first layer of paint is the most important because it sets the foundation for everything else.

A. Steps for Applying the Base Layer

  1. Start with a thin layer of dark gray or brown for the entire model.
  2. Use a slightly wet brush to help the paint spread smoothly.
  3. Let it dry completely before moving on to the next layers.

👉 Why start with dark colors?
Because it helps create depth—we can add lighter colors on top later to highlight features.

4. Adding Terrain Details

Now, let’s highlight the different elevations to make the mountain look realistic.

A. Painting the Rocky Slopes

  • Mix dark gray and brown to create natural rock colors.
  • Apply this to the mid-elevation areas where there’s less snow.
  • Use a dry brush technique (lightly dragging a nearly dry brush over the surface) to highlight texture.

B. Adding Snow to the Summit

  • Use white acrylic paint for the top sections of Everest.
  • Apply it gently with a small brush so it doesn’t cover all the details.
  • Blend it slightly into the lower parts to create a natural snow transition.

C. Creating Shadows & Depth

  • Use a thin wash of blue paint (diluted with water) to add shadows in deeper areas.
  • This helps make the terrain look more three-dimensional and realistic.

5. Blending for a Natural Look

If the colors look too sharp or artificial, we can blend them for a smoother transition:

✔ Use a damp brush (not too wet!) to soften edges between colors.
✔ Lightly dab with tissue paper to create natural textures.
✔ Add extra highlights with a dry brush technique (using very little paint).

6. Final Touches & Detailing

Now, let’s refine small details to make our model stand out.

✔ Add a tiny bit of green at the base for lower-elevation vegetation.
✔ Use a very thin brush to darken ridges and enhance the depth of valleys.
✔ If needed, apply a second layer of white to the snowy areas for a more vibrant look.

7. Sealing the Paint (Optional but Recommended)

Once you’re happy with the painting, consider sealing the model to protect the colors.

A. Why Seal the Model?

✔ It prevents paint from chipping.
✔ It gives a nice finish (matte or glossy).
✔ It makes the model more durable over time.

B. How to Seal It

  • Use a clear acrylic spray sealant (matte finish for realism, glossy for a shiny look).
  • Spray evenly from a distance and let it dry completely.
  • Avoid touching the model while the sealant is wet.

8. Final Showcase! 🎉

Now that the painting is complete, it’s time to admire the finished model!

  • Take some close-up shots to see how the terrain details turned out.
  • Place the model on a rotating table to capture different angles.
  • Compare it with real Everest images—see how close we got!

Step 7: Showcasing & Final Thoughts 🎥📸

Now that our miniature Mount Everest is complete, it’s time to showcase the final result! This step is just as important as making the model itself because it allows us to appreciate the details, compare it to the real Everest, and share it with others.

We’ll go through:
✅ Taking high-quality pictures & videos 📷
✅ Displaying the model creatively 🎭
✅ Discussing improvements & future possibilities 🔄

1. Setting Up for the Showcase

Now that our model is fully painted and sealed, let’s prepare a good setup for taking final pictures and videos.

A. Choosing the Right Background

✔ A plain background (black, white, or gray) helps keep the focus on the model.
✔ A natural background (like rocks, sand, or a printed Himalayan landscape) can make the model look more realistic.
✔ A rotating display stand can make the video more engaging.

👉 Tip: If you don’t have a rotating stand, just place the model on a smooth surface and slowly rotate it by hand while recording.

2. Taking High-Quality Pictures

Good photos will capture all the hard work and effort you put into this model.

✔ Use natural lighting or a soft light source to avoid harsh shadows.
✔ Take photos from different angles—top view, side view, and close-ups.
✔ If possible, use a macro mode (if your camera has one) to capture fine details.
✔ Adjust brightness and contrast slightly to enhance the image without over-editing.

📷 Recommended Shots:
✅ A top-down view to showcase the entire model.
✅ A close-up of the Everest peak to highlight the snow-covered summit.
✅ A side view to emphasize the elevation differences.
✅ A comparison with a real Everest photo for accuracy.

3. Recording the Final Video

Since this model was made as part of a DIY project, recording a short video will help document the journey.

A. Video Setup

✔ Use a steady camera or a tripod to avoid shaky footage.
✔ Record a 360-degree spin of the model to show every angle.
✔ Capture zoomed-in details of ridges, valleys, and painted textures.

👉 Tip: If you don’t have a rotating table, place the model on a smooth surface and rotate it manually while filming in slow motion.

4. Comparing to the Real Everest

To see how accurate our model is, let’s compare it with real-life images of Everest.

✔ Open a satellite image or topographic map of Everest.
✔ Hold your model beside the screen or overlay an image in editing.
✔ Look at the peak, ridges, and terrain features—see how closely they match!

👉 Fun Fact: Since this model is based on real-world elevation data, its shape and proportions are scientifically accurate!

5. Discussing Challenges & Improvements

No project is perfect, and there’s always room for improvement. Here are a few things I learned while making this model:

A. What Went Well? ✅

✔ The paper mache technique worked great for capturing the terrain details.
✔ The 3D-printed mold provided an accurate shape.
✔ The painting process helped bring the model to life.

B. What Could Be Improved? 🔄

🚀 More accurate painting – Next time, I’d experiment with different blending techniques for a more realistic look.
🚀 Stronger mold – A mold with higher infill or reinforced walls could make the casting process easier.
🚀 Different materials – Trying resin or plaster instead of paper mache might improve durability.

6. Exploring More Possibilities

One of the best things about this project is that it’s not limited to Everest. The same technique can be used to create other mountains, valleys, or even entire landscapes!

✅ Want to make another famous mountain?
Simply change the bottom mold piece and use elevation data from a different location!

✅ Want to turn this into a business?
You could create and sell custom 3D-printed terrain models for travelers, geographers, or nature lovers!

✅ Want to use other materials?
Try plaster, clay, or resin for different effects.

7. Sharing the Project & Helping Others

I believe that DIY projects should be shared and learned from, so I’m happy to help anyone who wants to try this themselves!

✔ I’ll include a link to the YouTube video I learned from in the description so that others can see how to convert landscapes into 3D models.
✔ If you have any questions, drop a comment, and I’d be happy to help!

Final Thoughts & Outro

✨ And that’s it! We have successfully created a 3D terrain model of Mount Everest from scratch using recycled paper! ✨

This project was special to me as a geography enthusiast, and I hope it inspires you to try something similar.

If you enjoyed this guide, let me know in the comments, and feel free to share your creations with me!

🚀 What’s next? Maybe a 3D model of the Grand Canyon? The Alps? Let’s keep experimenting!

🎥 Don’t forget to check out the full YouTube video where I demonstrate this process step by step!

💡 Until next time, keep creating, keep exploring, and keep recycling! ♻️🌍

Bonus: Variations & Future Projects 🎨🌍

Now that we’ve successfully created a miniature Mount Everest, let’s explore some variations and new projects using the same mold-making technique. The possibilities are endless, and with just a few modifications, we can create different landscapes, art pieces, or even useful objects!

1. Creating Different Landscapes 🏔️🏝️

The method we used to create Everest can be applied to any other landscape in the world. All you need is a new elevation map and a modified bottom mold piece.

Here are some ideas:

A. Famous Mountains & Peaks ⛰️

✔ K2, the second-highest mountain – A great choice if you want a more challenging peak to recreate.
✔ Matterhorn (Switzerland-Italy border) – The sharp pyramid-like structure would look amazing as a model.
✔ Fuji (Japan) – With its smooth slopes and snow-capped top, this would be a visually striking piece.

B. Entire Mountain Ranges 🏔️🏔️

✔ The Himalayas – Instead of a single peak, try making a larger terrain model featuring multiple mountains.
✔ The Alps – A great way to explore different elevations and valley formations.
✔ The Rocky Mountains – A fantastic landscape with rolling peaks and deep valleys.

C. Other Natural Landscapes 🌋🏝️🏜️

✔ Grand Canyon – This would be an amazing way to visualize the deep layers of rock and winding river.
✔ Hawaiian Volcanoes – Try creating a terrain model of Mauna Loa or Kilauea with lava flows.
✔ A Coastal Cliff – Showcasing dramatic cliffs meeting the ocean, like the Cliffs of Moher or Norway’s fjords.

👉 How to Modify the Mold? Simply replace the bottom mold piece with the new inverted terrain data of your chosen landscape. The rest of the process remains the same!

2. Transforming the Technique into Functional Objects 🏠🎁

While making 3D topographic models is exciting, this same paper mache mold-making technique can be applied to make useful items.

A. Custom Wall Art & Home Decor 🎨🏡

✔ Hanging 3D maps – Create framed topographic maps of famous places for home decoration.
✔ Textured wall panels – Design artistic landscape patterns and use them as unique wall decor.
✔ Coasters & tabletops – A flat terrain model sealed with resin can make an amazing coffee table top.

B. Desk Accessories & Gifts 🎁✏️

✔ Bookends – Two miniature mountains on either side of a row of books would look amazing!
✔ Pen holders – A small hollowed-out mountain could work as a unique desk accessory.
✔ Trophy bases – A 3D landscape could serve as the base for a customized award or souvenir.

C. Functional Recycled Items ♻️

✔ Recycled bowls & trays – Pressing paper mache into customized molds can create strong, eco-friendly storage solutions.
✔ Lamp covers – A thin-layered paper mache landscape can be turned into a lamp that glows beautifully when lit.
✔ Puzzle maps – Create a modular terrain model where different landscape pieces fit together like a puzzle!

Final Thoughts & Resources 🌏♻️

This project wasn’t just about making a miniature Mount Everest—it was about exploring creativity while promoting sustainability.

By using recycled paper, we’ve demonstrated that waste materials can be transformed into something valuable and beautiful. This approach reduces waste and encourages a more eco-friendly way of making art and educational models.

1. Encouraging More Recycling ♻️🌱

✅ Why is this important?
Recycling paper saves trees, reduces landfill waste, and lowers pollution. Instead of throwing away old notebooks, newspapers, or packaging materials, we can reuse them creatively.

✅ What can you do?
✔ Start collecting waste paper instead of discarding it.
✔ Experiment with different paper mache projects.
✔ Share this technique with others who might find it useful.

2. Helpful Tutorials & Learning Resources 🎥📚

Since this project involved 3D modeling and topographic mapping, I learned a lot from different online sources.

📌 How to Turn Landscapes into 3D Models?
I followed a great YouTube tutorial to learn how to convert real-world terrain data into 3D-printable models. I’ll include the link in the description for anyone who wants to try it themselves!

📌 Want to Learn More About Paper Mache?
If you’re new to paper mache crafting, check out online guides and videos that explain how to mix the perfect pulp consistency.

3. Inviting Questions & Discussions 💬

I love sharing DIY projects and helping others learn new skills! If you have any questions about this project or want to try your own 3D terrain models, feel free to drop a comment.

✔ Need help with Blender or Fusion 360? Ask me!
✔ Want recommendations for 3D printing settings? I’m happy to share my experience.
✔ Have your own recycled paper project ideas? Let’s brainstorm together!

4. What’s Next? More DIY Geography Projects! 🌍

This project has opened the door to so many creative possibilities. In future videos and articles, I’d love to explore:

🚀 Miniature cityscapes – Imagine making a 3D model of an entire city skyline!
🚀 Underwater landscapes – Using terrain data to create ocean floor models.
🚀 Mars & Moon terrain models – Bringing space exploration to life with 3D topographic prints!

5. Final Words: Keep Creating & Keep Exploring! 🎨🔬

This journey of combining geography, 3D printing, and recycling has been an amazing experience. I hope this guide inspires you to create your own terrain models and explore new ways to turn waste into art.

✨ If you found this project interesting, please share it with others and help spread the idea of creative recycling! ✨

📢 Don’t forget to check out my full YouTube video for a step-by-step visual guide! 🎥

👉 Until next time, keep creating, keep learning, and keep exploring the world—one DIY project at a time! 🌍♻️🚀

Infinity Workshop
Infinity Workshop
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